Chaos and Bliss

June 07, 2013  •  Leave a Comment

It was pretty hectic in the water last night.  The set waves were pushing 15 feet and shifting all over the lineup.  The guy next to me took a surfboard skeg to the head and opened up a pretty nice gash.  I got stuck inside by one set wave and ended up fighting the foam to surface just in time for a breath before the next wave pushed me to the bottom.  But none of that matters when everything lines up and you get a moment like this....looking out of a perfect barrel at sunset.    Chaotic moments lead to sunset barrel


Comments

No comments posted.
Loading...

Archive
January (1) February March (4) April (1) May June July August September (1) October November December
January February March April May June July August September October November December
January February March April May June July August September October November December
January February March April May June July August September October November December
January February March April May June July August September October November December
January February March April May June July August September October November December
January February March April May June July August September October November December
January February March April May June July August September October November December