It was pretty hectic in the water last night. The set waves were pushing 15 feet and shifting all over the lineup. The guy next to me took a surfboard skeg to the head and opened up a pretty nice gash. I got stuck inside by one set wave and ended up fighting the foam to surface just in time for a breath before the next wave pushed me to the bottom. But none of that matters when everything lines up and you get a moment like this....looking out of a perfect barrel at sunset.