Chaos and Bliss
June 07, 2013
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It was pretty hectic in the water last night. The set waves were pushing 15 feet and shifting all over the lineup. The guy next to me took a surfboard skeg to the head and opened up a pretty nice gash. I got stuck inside by one set wave and ended up fighting the foam to surface just in time for a breath before the next wave pushed me to the bottom. But none of that matters when everything lines up and you get a moment like this....looking out of a perfect barrel at sunset. 
Keywords:
barrel,
bliss,
california,
chaos,
gold,
magic hour,
moment,
newport beach,
south swell,
sunset,
wedge
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